Bakuchiol is a meroterpenoid plant compound extracted from the seeds of
Psoralea corylifolia (babchi), a plant traditionally used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine. It offers benefits similar to retinoids without the typical side effects (irritation, peeling, photosensitivity). Although bakuchiol is structurally different from retinol, it activates the same nuclear receptors (RARs), producing similar effects on gene expression. It induces the synthesis of collagen types I, III, and IV, improving firmness and elasticity; neutralizes reactive oxygen species (ROS), protecting against oxidative damage; reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines, soothing the skin; inhibits melanin production, lightening dark spots; and improves the skin’s barrier function by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Effects:- Clinically proven anti-aging effect upon topical application (counteracts the harmful effects of photoaging).
- Reduction of hyperpigmentation: Clinical studies have demonstrated bakuchiol's ability to inhibit melanin synthesis.
- Antibacterial effect: Topical application of bakuchiol inhibits the growth of common bacteria found on healthy skin, such as S. aureus and S. epidermidis, which can cause certain skin infections.
- Anti-inflammatory effect: Reduces levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines. Elevated levels of these cytokines are observed in aged skin due to chronic exposure to UVA and UVB radiation.
- Antioxidant effect: Bakuchiol has a documented ability to block free radicals and reduce the metabolic oxidation that leads to skin aging.
Retinal – Clinical trials have shown that combining Retinal, a natural metabolite of Vitamin A that stimulates cell renewal and collagen production, with bakuchiol creates a potent synergy that enhances its properties on skin cells and barrier function without causing irritation.
Furthermore, when Retinal was formulated with other anti-photoaging ingredients, such as niacinamide, it reversed UV radiation-induced deficits in the structural components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid and collagen. This resulted in a reversal of clinical signs of aging with significant improvements in skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), number of wrinkles (-43.2%), and skin tone evenness (+7.0%), observed after 28 days of nightly use. Notably, the number of crow's feet was reduced in 100% of patients. Retinal offers many advantages over retinol, as it is one metabolic step closer to retinoic acid, which is ultimately active on the skin. In other words, compared to retinol, retinal:
- Acts faster
- Is 11 times more potent
- Has antibacterial effects
- Is less irritating.
Advantages of Retinal vs. Other Retinoids: It requires only one enzymatic step to convert into retinoic acid (retinol requires two), making it significantly more potent and faster-acting. Despite its high potency, it causes less irritation than prescription retinoic acid. It possesses unique antibacterial properties among retinoids, which is beneficial for acne-prone skin. Visible results are seen after 4–6 weeks vs. 8–12 weeks for conventional retinol. Retinal is 10–20 times more potent than retinol in
in vitro studies.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) – Regulates sebum production, reduces redness, and improves skin tone (brightens the skin). In gel form, it has a soothing, anti-inflammatory, and brightening effect. Topical application of niacinamide, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, is clinically proven to slow down the skin’s aging process and hyperpigmentation. It stimulates the synthesis of dermal collagen and inhibits its breakdown. Niacinamide is one of the most studied ingredients in cosmetic dermatology, with over 100 clinical studies demonstrating its efficacy.
It strengthens the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by up to 24%; regulates sebum production by up to 30% without drying out the skin; stimulates the synthesis of collagen types I and III and inhibits the MMPs that break it down, thereby reducing wrinkles and improving firmness; and inhibits melanosomal transfer, reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out skin tone. It reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines, soothes redness and irritation, and improves retinoid tolerability; and it serves as a precursor for NAD+ and NADP+, essential cofactors in cellular DNA repair.
Tocopheryl Acetate – Tocopheryl acetate is a derivative of Vitamin E that converts into Vitamin E within the skin. It is a potent antioxidant that, thanks to its lipophilic properties, protects cell membranes and skin cells from free radicals, slows down the aging process, regenerates the epidermis, and promotes hydration. It helps improve the surface texture and increases the skin's ability to retain moisture.
In the epidermis, Vitamin E is the primary antioxidant providing cellular protection. It neutralizes aggressive compounds formed as a result of UV radiation, medications, and pollutants in the skin, thereby preventing premature aging, with a particular emphasis on reducing acute erythema and photoaging. Other important, clinically proven results of using tocopheryl acetate include improvements in fine lines around the eyes, roughness, radiance, skin tone, elasticity, density, collagen production, and the overall appearance of the skin.
D-Panthenol – D-Panthenol is an analog of pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5), a provitamin with significant and documented benefits. When applied to the skin, it penetrates and converts into Vitamin B5. It soothes and intensely hydrates, accelerating the healing of micro-tears in the skin after shaving. Its calming effect is particularly beneficial for sensitive and irritated skin. It helps reduce redness and discomfort, providing immediate relief. It has the ability to attract and retain moisture, preventing water loss. Well-hydrated skin is not only softer and more elastic but also healthier and therefore more resistant to external aggressors. Additionally, D-panthenol boosts lipid synthesis and epidermal differentiation. D-Panthenol is non-comedogenic.
Hyaluronic Acid Compounds with Varying Molecular Weights provide intense hydration, smoothing and plumping the skin from the surface to the deepest layers. The four-level hyaluronic acid complex is a combination of different forms of hyaluronic acid that act on various levels of the skin to provide intense hydration and smoothness. These ingredients include sodium hyaluronate for surface hydration, cross-linked hyaluronic acid for long-lasting hydration, low molecular weight hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid to penetrate deeper skin layers, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate for additional hydration and improved smoothness. QWADRUM has developed a unique hyaluronic acid complex containing molecules of varying molecular weights in five different active compounds to ensure that their properties are activated in all layers of the skin:
- Acetylated Sodium Hyaluronate: Ultra-high molecular weight
- Sodium Hyaluronate: High molecular weight
- Sodium Hyaluronate: Cross-linked polymer with high molecular weight
- Sodium Hyaluronate: Ultra-low molecular weight
- Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate: Unusually low molecular weight